All I knew about Maligne was it claimed to serve a dynamite chicken parmesan at this upscale restaurant in working class Seaside. While that is absolutely true, my Maligne experience was ultimately uneven—now quite a gamble for many diners at this price point.
Getting to Maligne: Logistics, Ambiance and Customer Service
Maligne’s location in Seaside comes with casual ambiance and convenient, free street parking–a welcome bonus for this restaurant’s unexpected Obama Way/Broadway address. (Yes, the street in this Monterey-adjacent city goes by both names interchangeably. But that’s not the weirdest saga behind this newly-developed-to-be-old-school neighborhood avenue—that honor goes to the botched Walk of Fame installation.)
Service at Maligne was inconsistent, even before arriving at the restaurant. In this post-pandemic era, it’s generally a good idea to secure a reservation at any sit-down establishment in Monterey. A message to this restaurant went unanswered, and thankfully we were able to grab a spot about 30 minutes before arriving. Maligne was surprisingly buzzy for a weekday night, giving a celebratory and cozy feeling to this late fall evening as multiple people celebrated their birthdays on this particular night.
The restaurant’s interior perfects the minimalism trend (don’t forget to notice the beautiful chairs you’re sitting in). However, less-is-more can lead to awkwardness upon arrival. I loitered in the liminal space near the door because a few steps in any direction lands you in the head-turning open kitchen or on top of someone’s plate. Instead I chose to drift near the entrance and examine cookbook titles until I was noticed—which was mercifully brief.
Two servers took turns visiting our table, but the scattered personnel did not affect accuracy. Both were equally skilled at upselling—a necessary beast, I suppose. One server explained the menu to us, which felt a little formal for Seaside. But it did provide an opportunity to hear the chicken parm described as “bodacious”, which was a highlight of the evening.
Another awkward moment came when the entertainment of Maligne’s open kitchen included an extended performance of “fanning flames and smoke.” Two chefs worked furiously to contain the smoke rolling off the grill, a fitting metaphor for 2024. One of our servers said the smoke is par for the course when making their signature cheeseburger, before leaving to take turns flapping the front doors periodically in an attempt to redirect the haze.
Food at Maligne: Monterey’s Best Restaurant?
Speaking of smoke: the smoked beet appetizer salad on Maligne’s menu is a standout. I have become particularly fond of beet salads since living on the Central Coast and this creative version ($16) elevates this ubiquitous menu item with balanced sweet, salty, smokey and herbaceous flavors.
Another heavy dose to expect with all of the appetizers (and entrees, but, blessedly, not the desserts) was dill. The herb was welcome on the beet salad but a little heavy for the Wagyu toast, where the charred bread and abundant herbs competed against this remarkable beef. Unfortunately, I don’t feel I was able to taste the Wagyu enough to justify its $28 price point.
For entrees, Maligne’s humble signatures truly shine. The cheeky Royale with Cheese ($28) is a greasy, decadent double cheeseburger with an homage to Pulp Fiction in name only (and maybe the threat of grease fires). The burger is paired with perfect French fries, featuring a textbook crispy, golden exterior and a rewarding, fluffy center.
If I ever go back, I would get Maligne’s chicken parmesan ($36). In addition to the head-turningly “bodacious” size, the delicate layer of crisp prosciutto layered beneath melted cheese and an acidic radicchio salad heaped on top bring welcome relief to the indulgent chicken. The impressive size and reheat-ability of the entree also makes it a no-brainer; consider sharing the entree or enjoying it as leftovers. If you’re visiting the area and your hotel room doesn’t have a refrigerator, be emotionally prepared to say goodbye to half of this terrific entree.
Skip the mussels (moules frites, $32) if they’re on the menu when you go. Everyone at my table who sampled this dish got sand in their mouth. Also, the choice to serve this dish in a cumbersome cast iron Dutch oven makes it difficult to maneuver the meat out of the mussels and nearly impossible to dip those perfect fries into the tempting broth below.
Both the tiramisu and the ricotta cake were serviceable, but lacked the indulgence I look for in a dessert.
Maligne: The Conclusion
After leaving Maligne a few hundred dollars lighter, I was also extremely confused. Is this a high-end restaurant or a neighborhood spot? Should I be upset to be leaving with a lingering grease smell in my hair or thrilled I’m also bringing home such a craveable, high-end chicken parmesan in Seaside?
I found some enlightenment in this March 2023 article, which describes Maligne’s rocky path to discover its identity. After first opening with a more luxury concept, the owners quickly realized more approachable fare will survive better in working class Seaside—resulting in the version of the restaurant I tried.
And while I love hearing business owners are listening to customer feedback, I am unconvinced that Maligne has left its fine dining aspirations behind. The $70+ tableside Dover sole is impressive, but doesn’t align with Maligne’s insistence they are simply an approachable, neighborhood bistro. Maligne serves lunch on Friday and Saturday, but the menu (and its prices) appears to stay the same.
So, while Maligne’s riches-to-rags-to-riches story is a compelling one, at this moment it appears they may be losing the plot.
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